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Plymouth to Exmouth to Bournemouth to Brightonmouth...

21/10/2014

2 Comments

 
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Well I did it... But not as expected...
Or, for those who know me, perhaps it was exactly as expected?!

If you read the 'ride prep blog' then you've got a rough idea of all the bits and pieces that I took. The astute amongst you will note further on that the neat and tidy seat-pack system was replaced with a cumbersome and slightly heavy rack. Not Ti. Not even skinny steel, but a big lump of aluminium, plastic, and paint.

Why, you may ask, did I choose the rack? It was because I took too much stuff. Far too much stuff... read on for the full ride report and to hear me moan about how I took too much stuff...

In my typical 'anxious preparation state' I had the bike all set up and ready to roll by Saturday, so that I could have a play about with the family before heading off on the 1425 train to Plymouth on Sunday.
I made the concious decision to swap the 8l seatpack for a 13l drybag strapped to a rack.. this was mainly because I was fretting where to keep my spare gloves (didn't use them) , or where to store my book (ME...A BOOK...didn't read it..), and where to keep the solar charger (didn't work). 
I'd also opted for the Alpkit Fuel pod, which was actually brilliant for keeping the camera and snacks to hand.
With everything all strapped up and affixed to the bike, my svelte Ti beauty was now coming in at a portly 40lb (18.14kg)! That's about 18lb (8.16kg) worth of luggage and contents - actually quite a small amount given that in reading up about cycle touring and the like, a lot of web bloggers were fretting about the reaching 30kg limit of just their rear racks. I suppose, however, if you were heading further away from civilisation (up North, for example) then you'd need to carry more food, locks, immunisations etc etc..
(speaking of locks, I picked up a really tiny and quick to use cable lock from South Downs Bikes, similar to this - yes, someone with a pair of pliers will be able to snip through in seconds, but the ability to lock the bike up when nipping into a shop/loo, and not have someone simply ride the thing away, was great. It's very lightweight too - I'd thoroughly recommend it!)
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Day zero.

The Sunday morning started with a good 'pre ride fuelling'of a double breakfast - the first being a standard bowl'a'cereal affair, the second being a few hours later at the Bluebird cafe to celebrate Popsy's birthday!
This would put me in good stead for a busy afternoon of sitting on a train for five hours...
When the time had come, I had a quick check for phone, purse, and train tickets, then kissed the wife and child goodbye and cycled to the station...
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The train journey was fairly uneventful - a train to Fareham, a train to Westbury, then a train to Plymouth. 
The final train had the bike carriage separate to the passenger compartment, right at the rear of the train. This was 'unnerving' for 2 reasons 
  1. I was really thirsty and hungry and had left my bottles and snacks on the bike.
  2. I'd also left my Exposure Joystick, Garmin 800, and Carbon pump on the bike.
However, this being a civilised county and all that, all my bits and bobs were still on the bike on the trains termination in Plymouth!

My first night's sleepover was planned in a wooded area a few miles out of Plymouth; Cann Woods:
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This was near enough to the NCN route 2 (which was, of course, my planned route home) but far enough away from Plymouth so as to not get pissed on my drunk locals coming back from the pub...
My route from the station took me over the river, along some neat gravel paths, and through Saltram Park.
It was whilst cycling through here with my headtorch scanning the surrounding area that shone light on a really cool looking structure! I had no idea what it was, but it looked pretty spectacular for a bivi spot, and had a cracking view over the river Plym.
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A bit of Googling tells me this is theSaltram House Amphitheatre; a Grade 2 listed building..neat!
I strung the tarp up (fairly loosely) between some scaffold that seemed to be holding the thing upright, settled the airbed down, and heated up some water to cook my tea - cous cous and chicken tika!
(You'll note cous cous is a big feature of my camping meals - lightweight and easy to cook - winner..)

Day one.

The view over the Plym in the morning..
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The view over me in the morning...
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I'd had a fairly good night's sleep - no disturbance from the local riff raff at all (actually, with this sleeping rough malarkey I'm the riff raff...).
I had a good breakfast of a cuppa-porridge with banana, and some coffee. The plan for the breakfasts was always to heat the water in my Ti mug, and use half for coffee in a plastic cup (crappy instant coffee, I'm embarrassed to say) and use the remainder in the mug with a porridge sachet. I'd previously used the instant porridges that come in a plastic pot, but why carry a pot mostly full of air, when a small sachet will suffice! Great little things, and will get more when they are on offer.
The riding started at about 8am, heading North out of Saltram park and joining the route 2 at Chaddlewood. The first part was continuing on the gravel tracks through the park, then it was road road road...
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I can imagine the views as I left Plymouth and carried on past Ivybridge would have been beautiful - stunning vistas of Dartmoor to the North, and the coast to the South. However, as you can see from the photos it was pretty misty and murky!
Not cold as such, just a bit damp and 'meh'...
The signs for the NCN Route 2, as well as the Garmin 800, were keeping me on track.
I carried on past South Brent and then turned South towards Dartington and Totnes. So far I was about 20 miles in and the bike was handling fine;nothing had fallen off so far! 
There was a nice little section here specifically for the NCN route - taking me away from the (lightly filled) roads.
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Just out of Dartington, and just before Totnes on the A385 there's a nifty little left hander that, again, takes you off the roads and along some cracking gravel paths 'round the back' of Totnes. As you can see on my Strava feed, I kind of missed it so span round and headed back :-)
It's signed as a footpath, but IS actually part of the cycle route (there's NCN2 signs along it..)
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Cutting out of the town, you carry on again along country lanes heading towards Torbay/Torquay.
Imagine my surprise when I cycled past here...! (for reference; I'm married to "Miss Parkdean Torquay 2004 (ish)"
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There were a few hills up towards Torbay and Kinkerswell - I was getting peckish (hey, I was 30 miles in) so stopped for coffee and a toasted sarnie in Kinkerswell. I also made use of the facilities - my room last night was lacking.... I like the name Kinkerswell.
Kinkerswell.
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From Torquay to the river Teign it was starting to warm up - the sun was coming out, and the legs were feeling great.
I knew this day would be quite hilly compared to the last leg of the journey, but me and the Tripster were managing just fine! My game plan for rides like this is to "keep eating like a pig, drinking like a camel, and wee when you need to". I was sticking to my plan a treat, with numerous filling up and emptying off stops along the way.
Coming up by Teignmouth there were some great views of the water, and crossing the river was really pretty too!
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Obviously a river mouth is most likely to be situated at sea level (they're like that), and there was a fairly steep and steady climb up and over towards Dawlish and Exmouth. 
Looking at the elevation profile on the GPS I knew that it was going to be flat as the route traversed along the mouth of the River Exe (aptly named, Exmouth...), so I happily gave a boost of energy climbing up and over and through Dawlish.
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The section of the route towards Exminster, through the deer park, and along the Exeter canal was fantastic - tightly packed gravel, fast, flat, smooth, and really stunning views.
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The route then cuts under the M5, crosses the river, and continues along the other side of the river mouth towards Exmouth 'proper'. However, my spot for the night had been suggested on Singletrackworld,  and I was heading towards some woodland near Woodbury Common, about 60 miles in to the ride...
...however, as you can see from this picture taken at Woodbury Common, I'd got there in pretty good time. Hmmm..
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Knowing I make terrible company, and getting frantic at the prospect of having 'nothing to do until it got dark', I 
called an urgent meeting and decided to simply plod on and see how far I got until the sun set!

[Actually, I'll be honest (as probably no-one's listening...). As daft as it may sound, and bearing in mind I had only been away from home for 23.5 hours (I got the 1430 train yesterday) - I was getting homesick!! It's funny because cycling is one of those great activities that you can really push yourself on, getting hot, sweaty, and tired, but actually, for the most part, it's not really 'that hard' in the sense that anyone can do it and to ride a bike is a fairly basic process. 
What this affords, particularly if you're out on your own, is a lot of thinking time.
I originally thought that I would be 'mr cool and chilled out' and be all trendy and sit and read a book whilst chewing a blade of grass and looking all sophisticated in a cafe with my cycling cap on...but actually I just realised that whilst I love riding my bike (which I really do), the thought of being away from home, ON MY OWN, with no crazy little boy to play with (I'm talking about my son, BTW...weirdos) or wife to chat to, was actually getting to me.
I missed my family.
I'll reiterate - I'd been away for less than a day and my task was complete - I'd 'found myself' and realised how much I appreciate my family (yeah, lame...).
So now I had a new challenge..to get home ASAP! This I could do!!!

A little bit of mental maths (or if you're American - maths. Just because you're American, you still need an 'S') I realised that if I pedalled 'loads' today, and even more 'loads' tomorrow, I could get home late on Tuesday, rather than late on Wednesday! 
Rather than go by mileage, I'd simply ride as far as I could before the sun came down.
Bonkers I know, but hey ho let's go....]


So I carried on out of the woods near Woodbury common, and on towards Otterton and Sidmouth. 
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The hills were becoming more noticeable at about the 70 mile mark, and there was a real kicker by the name of 'peak hill' just before Sidmouth!
Here's the profile on the GPS - I'm grateful I'm approaching it from 'left to right'!
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And the views from the top - the sun was really clear now.
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Who's this handsome chap taking a well deserved snack stop....?
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The drop down from here into Sidmouth was rapid, and the pace was kept up along the seafront too!
Coming out of Sidmouth there was a rather nasty climb..however, just before that there was a small ford crossing with a sign "no bicycles". Immediately I saw this as an invitation to challenge, and consulted with a trio of octogenarians taking the footbridge across. They all thought it would be a laugh for me to cross it, and one even offered to take photos (after I asked him). I briefly instructed him how to use a simple digital camera ("This screen shows what you are taking a photo of. This button takes the photo" etc etc).
Here are the results...
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Amazing....
Anyway, after thanking him for his first efforts and showing him again, here are the results.
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They ruddy loved my 'devil may care' attitude to the ford, and after congratulating the chap on a significant improvement up the learning curve towards professional photographer, I carried on up and over, past the Donkey sanctuary and towards Beer. 
Not the drink, the place.  
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This caused further tugging on my heart strings, as a cottage in Beer/Seaton was the first holiday we went on as a new family, shortly after Miles was born...bless me...
It was pretty cool having ridden here from Plymouth, and I remembered some of the lanes we'd driven down years before, passing almost familiar pubs!
Once I'd dropped right down to Seaton sea front, I thought I may as well re-live the experience and I got fish and chips from the chippie we'd used before!
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Even though I'd been eating constantly on the way here, stopping at corner shops and garages etc, I still fancied some 'proper food'. The fish and chips was just the trick. Despite feeling really hungry, I couldn't stomach the whole lot, so not wanting to waste it I tipped everything into a plastic bag, strapped that to my rack, and carried on. I'm surprised I wasn't followed by a swarm of seagulls!
I was still feeling strong, so plodded on!
The hills from Seaton through Colyford to Axminster weren't too bad, but then there was a giant of a climb out of Axminster up towards 'Raymond's hill'. Raymond - I despise you and your hill....
The villages were getting more 'Dorset' now, the roads were narrowing more consistently, and the sun seemed to be coming down..
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I was coming up towards the 100 mile mark, and was feeling like I should call it a day and set up camp whilst the sun was still out. All the woodland seemed to have disappeared, and I was surrounded by farmers' fields and small houses. These don't make great bivi spots as farmers are mad and probably start the day at 5am, and if you sleep in someone's garden then might shoot you..
As luck would have it, just before Bridport, I saw a gate with a sign saying "Dotter Reservoir" - a water company plot of land, with a raised 'mound' (with I imagine, water in it?) and a small concrete building I could hide behind - perfect!
I lifted the bike over, climbed the fence, and settled in for the evening..disaster had struck, in that my solar charger had eeked very little energy from the lame sun, so none of my gizmos could be charged... i'd be stuck without my GPS, so decided to make 'first contact' with some locals. Thankfully, with me explaining "hi, I'm cycling from Plymouth to Worthing, and am sleeping rough over there, could you charge my GPS and smartphone please" they were all too obliging!
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So that was day one - Plymouth to Bridport. All in, about 100 miles. I lay in my sleeping bag on a calm but chilly night, happy knowing that with some effort I could get home tomorrow :-)
It was fun waking at 3am hungry, but some pork pies, and cold fish and chips soon had me back to sleep.

Day two.

I'd had a great night's sleep, and although there wasn't any rain or wind, I was truly grateful for the tarp as the dew was falling at about 3am, and the ground around me was soaked, but I stayed nice and dry.

I realised the concrete building at the reservoir also had a built in kitchen..
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After an imaginative breakfast of porridge, coffee, and banana, I packed up my gear with the intention of heading off and only unpacking it to dry out when I got home! This would require a fair amount of effort as although 150 miles isn't a ground-breaking distance, I had 5 ferries to catch, AND I had to beat the GPS batteries back home (Which, incidentally, the kind locals were true to their word and HAD left my phone and Garmin on their doorstep as promised, and not flogged it on eBay or STW or such..)
At just past 8am I headed off again.
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I was really excited about today as I was really looking forward to riding through familiar territories - I'd lived in Dorchester for a few years, and knew the route from Dorch to Poole/Sandbanks fairly well. I'd also lived in Bournemouth for a similar number of years. I'd also worked in Pompey, and after many a night shift in A+E (after messing up train times on the weekend) I'd ridden back from Havant to Worthing on the fixie, so all the 'components' of today's ride had pretty much been ridden before.
I was also looking forward to today as I knew that once I'd climbed up and over Hardy's monument, it was pretty much downhill today!! (2600m climbing in 100 miles yesterday, just over 1000m climbing in 150 miles today says a lot).
The route through Bridport and the Bredy's (little and long) were very pleasant (a word that really can describe Dorset to a tea!). From Bridport to Hardy's was about 20ish miles.
I giggled at the cock building..(this wasn't a high brow trip)
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The views coming round just North of Abbotsbury were stunning too.
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In the distance I could just see Hardy's monument - seeing it actually got me excited as I knew there was a rewarding climb up to it, then a beast of a road descent down to Martinstown and Dorch.
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Some of the other sights were just cool!
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The climb up from Little Bredy all the way to Hardy's monument was a fairly steady affair - some dirt and damp patches on the road caused a bit of rear wheel slippage, but I kept on going.
It was on this stretch of road I realised that the puncture I'd had the day previous had caused the tyre to seat really badly - it was like riding an egg and the more I thought about it the more the 'bump' was accentuated!
Thankfully I knew there was a bike shop in Dorchester that hopefully had some GT85 and a pump I could use to reseat the tyre!
At the top, by the monument, I snapped a few photos and had a few snacks before heading off safe in the knowledge that truly there were no more significant hills from here!
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It was a quick blast from the top of the hill down to Martinstown, then through the muddy farm by Maiden Castle and into Dorchester. 
Although not 'technical and challenging', as you've seen a fair few of the miles on this trip were away from the tarmac, and best suited to a touring/gravel bike rather than a speed obsessed road-chariot.
I took a slight deviation as planned to pop into Dorchester Cycles for a chat to the mechanic, and for a quick spray of lube round my rim (fnar fnar) in order to seat my rubber properly (fnar fnar fnar...)
Carrying on from Dorch I sped through Moreton, refuelled at a garage in Wool, and carried on into the Purbecks.

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Once past Wareham, the route carried on road through the heath land, then there's a quick sharp left hook onto some dry, dusty, rooty tracks cutting the most direct route through the heathland and towards Studland and the Sandbanks ferry. I was hoping to get the ferry crossing for midday - giving me plenty of time to complete the latter part of the journey.
As the paths through the heath were tight packed and fairly straight, I could pop onto the drops and speed my way through at about 18mph! 
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As I popped out of the heath and onto the Ferry Road, I saw lots of cars and cyclists coming towards me - this meant the ferry had just pulled in.
However, I forgot how long the road was (not that long, but not short. You know...) and by the time I'd sprinted to try to get the ferry, I was met with this:
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Oh well. I waited and chatted to a couple who were out for a road ride in the sun shine - they were asking about the gear I'd taken and were quite impressed actually by how little was on the bike. We all agreed, however, it was still really heavy and I'm some sort of demi-god hero. Probably.
After crossing the Ferryman's palm with gold (a pound) I'd battled the seas to make it out alive the other side.
The sun was out, the wind was behind me, and the seafront prom was beckoning me to blast along it.
At one point (read - "all points") I may have been exceeding the 10mph speed limit imposed on cyclists. 
Sorry.
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With the tailwind, the flat prom, and the sunshine egging me on, it felt like I got to Southbourne in no time, and Hengtisbury Head popped into view.
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Rather than carry on to get the Mudeford ferry, I cycled through the picturesque Christchurch (I took no pictures) and stopped at a sandwich bar to pick up a baguette and can of pop. With the baguette stuffed into my jersey pocket ("is that a baguette in your pocket...?") I carried on out of the town, and stopped to eat it on the edge of the New Forest.
Once you enter the New Forest, there's a nice mix of straight flat roads, and straight gravel paths.
It's actually about 25 miles from entering the forest until you get to the Hythe Ferry - granted they aren't hard miles as the place is as flat as a cow pat, but I picked up another puncture and was starting to get a twinge of achilles tendinitis in the left heel again!
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Arriving at Hythe in the early afternoon I'd avoided all the So'ton commuters going back and forth... I paid the exuberant £6 something for me and the bike to cross, and then proceeded to walk about half way towards Southampton along the Ferry Pier! (Actually, a bit of googling tells me the pier is 640m long!). 
For those of you who've ever been on the pier, you'll laugh at the number of health and safety signs/statements/threats all the way along the thing! It's a wonder I made it to the end alive (though that may be due to my adherence to said signs perhaps?)
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Getting off near the Red Funnel port, you cycle a bit through the town, across the Itchen Bridge (I was Itchen to cross it..) and then hug the waterfront for about 6 miles, until you get to ferry number 3; The Hamble ferry.
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Cruel as it may be, I did have a little internal chortle when the tiny little pink ferry 'putt putts' up, and I gently get on and sit down, only t be followed on by a rather 'rotund' pair who, rather than sit either side to balance out, both chose to sit on one side..the same side that the rather large ferryman was sat on!
Skinny ol' me and my laden bike had little to offer in terms of counter balance, and we 'angled' our way across..
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Getting off the ferry and readjusting my horizon, I carried on NCN route 2 South of Fareham.
I was amazed at this section, as I was riding through some beautiful countryside, with stunning healthland and wetland views, and all the while only being a stone's throw from a major South Coast city! This is the sort of thing I love about trips by bike - you get to see parts of the country you would NEVER see in a journey by car!
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Leaving the gravel tracks and joining the roads again, you nip through Lee-on-Solent and on towards the Gosport ferry. 
Ferry number 4 was a fairly big one - it was nice to see plenty of cyclists dressed in suits/lycra etc all using it :-)
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Disembarking near Spinnaker tower, I forgoed a discount shopping trip at Gunwharf Quay, and pootled along Southsea front (I say pootled, but I still got a KOM along here!! Ca-ching!)  towards the final ferry of the day - the Hayling ferry. I had a bit of a panic about an hour earlier which resulted in much checking of my smart phone, as I couldn't remember when the final crossing was - if it was 1800 then I was stuffed. If it was 1900 then I'd be fine. I was fine.
Actually, I'd got to the tiny ferry spit at about 1820, and rang the mobile number given there to 'call the ferry', only to be told he'd come across at ten to the hour..pants...
The sun was setting and it was getting a bit chilly just stood out on the water, exposed to the elements..
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..however my boredom and frustration soon turned to intrigued excitement as the oddest looking bike I'd seen in a long time cycled up! 
It's an old Specialized full sus bike with a slightly HeathRobinson- esque front wheel drive recumbent conversion... The chap was telling me about the need to flip the forks to alter the rake etc, otherwise it handles too sluggishly (or too twitchily - I can't remember!)
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When the ferry finally came the overweight, fag smoking ferryman was trying to tell me the saddle on my bike was "too thing and uncomfortable and all wrong", and I should get another one. I didn't think to say to him that "for the past 220 miles my sweet behind was actually doing alright thanks, but I'll take your bike fitting notes and file them under 'maybe'..."
Both cyclists jumped off at the foot of Hayling island (is it an Island?) and the recumbent man bid me farewell..
The bike lights were on, and after cruising up the final gravel section of the route (the disused Hayling railway line) I snapped a few pictures of the view across the water...
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..headed North off the Island, turned right at Havant, and simply kept my head down and rode through the evening for the final 30 miles...
Actually, just outside Havant I stopped at a service station and dropped about 8 quid on sweets, snacks, and milkshake - enough fuel to have me blasting my way back home along the 'old A27', through Chichester, along some pitch black country roads, across the swing bridge at Littlehampton, along the seafront, and to pop through the front door at about 2130!!

So..how was it, did I enjoy it, and did I have the right bike??
Well - hopefully you can tell that despite my emotional moment on day one, I had a ruddy great time! 
When I updated on Facebook that I'd be coming home a day early, it was met was met with a mix of "I thought you'd do that" to questions of why was I simply not relaxing and taking it easy?
Well, I kind of knew I struggle to simply relax, and as I'd said the prospect of simply 'hanging about' and waiting for the day to end all by myself was a bit much for me!!
I really loved the long distances covered, and the bike was such a pleasure to ride all the way without any real issue or hassle (I really should write up a little review of the Tripster..).
The second day was the longest distance I'd covered in one go (150 miles) and TBH I felt like I could have kept going. At no point over the 2 days had I really 'worn myself out' - yes, there were a few steep hills that I puffed up, but my intention was to be able to simply keep going and I managed this by constantly grazing on food all the way, keeping well hydrated (actually, on day 2 I didn't pee until the just before the Sandbanks ferry!), and staying well within the anaerobic threshold. I don't have a HR monitor or anything to 'check' this - I'm just aware if I'm pushing it a bit too hard and tell myself to simply 'back off' the pedals a touch!

"Could this be done on a road bike"
Hmm..well those who've seen Road bike party will know that you can do pretty much most types of riding on any bike. However.... in reality there are tonnes of gravel/mud/off road sections over the route, covering many miles, and in reality I think you'd need to swap over slick tyres for something with a bit of grip to them (Cyclocross tyres..). Stick those on your bike and you're good to go!

So..what's next?
Well, Having ridden the route and knowing 'what's in store'...I'd really like to have a go at doing it all in one stint! 250 miles door to door!
For this, though, I'd obviously be carrying less stuff, but would need to have my 'power delivery' sorted by means of a dynamo hub perhaps??

It's on the list....
2 Comments
Rich
20/10/2014 10:00:47 pm

I have been toying of doing most of this on my SS CX as there are no brutal hills. I think I missed you on the Hythe ferry by 20 mins that day.

I think I will wait for the longer day so I dont have to faff with lights.

Reply
Jimbo link
21/10/2014 12:37:53 am

Well done Ian, great write up, find another route and I'll join you as long as you don't compress it by a day!

Reply



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